Walking the Roof of the World - My Everest Base Camp Trek: Part IV
Introduction: What’s been going on in my life
Hello friends, hope you’re well doing well and sorry for not being more consistent with my posting! It’s been quite busy at work picking up more responsibilities whilst trying to balance training and my social life. The last couple of week I’ve done a bit more than just lacing up my shoes and heading out the door. I’m deep into training for the Comrades Marathon, a goal that’s as daunting as it is exciting. The fatigue is starting to settle into my legs, the kind that doesn’t just go away after a good night’s sleep. But strangely, I feel fitter than ever and there’s something grounding about this process. The repetition, the solitude, the way every run becomes a small conversation with myself. Watching the London Marathon the other week was unexpectedly emotional. Seeing people of all backgrounds, shapes, speeds, and stories crossing that finish line stirred something in me. It reminded me that running isn’t just about pace or distance. It’s about having heart, courage, and ability to just keep showing up, repeatedly. That energy is carrying me into this weekend, where I’m taking on my longest training run yet which is 55km. A little terrified but determined to finish the job and honestly… pretty proud to be here. The distance kind of reminds me of the time we trekked from Debouche to Dingbouche, long arduous but rewarding.
Day 7-8: Trek from Namche Bazzar to Phortse Gaon and Dingbouche (4,410m)
We woke up bright and early, around 6:30 for breakfast and had the usual porridge with fruit and two boiled eggs. A nice hearty carb fuelled breakfast that was needed for the long trek ahead. We left around 8am for the trek to Dingbouche, we followed the road around the side of the mountain and it felt like an old goat path (or Yak path) that had been used for millennia. The path as well was in great condition too thanks to and old Sherpa who spent years building the road in order to make it walkable for everyone. The views were by far the most stunning and scenic views of the Himalayas so far. I can’t describe to you the sheer size of these mountains, it was mesmeric.
A couple of hours later we stopped for a small tea break in a small village, making use of the red hip flask the Max brought. We then saw Neema playing with a 2-month-old puppy from the cafe, it was pretty adorable and quite fluffy. Neema then had the idea to take the puppy with us on the Trek! I thought he was going to take the puppy all the way to Everest with us but Nurbu said it was not wise to do that so Neema dropped the puppy off at the next village who would bring it back later to its owner.
The walk was mainly downhill but then it was a steep incline up to Dingbouche. On the way we bumped into the porters who were carrying all of our main gear/ Carter and I got chatting with them and asked if we could try and pick up our gear with their DIY head brace strap. So we put the headband/strap on around ours heads an picked up all carrier which had our gear in, which we were reminded weighed 60kg. My God… it was heavy and awkward to carry and they had to do this over miles and miles for us. I think it’s fair to say that the porters have earned their pay and then some. On the way up the steep incline, we finally reached the top of the mountain or peak. We stopped off at the Dingbouche Monastery. It was one of the highest Buddhist Monastery’s in Asia. It was quiet, peaceful actually. There was a sense of relief being inside, actually the whole place seemed like that, I would of happily spent the night in there. But our lodge was about a 20 minute walk down the hill of the monastery. When we arrived the hotel empty, almost ghostly like, it felt like it was still being built and was half done to be honest. It was nice and the hot shower was welcoming but I that would be the last hot shower I would have for a while. I counted my money and realised I didn’t have that much left, roughly 43,000 rupees to be precise which would probably cover the rest of food for the trip back to Lukla. I luckily packed some oat and protein bars which were for snacks really but I decided to use them as my breakfast the next morning to save money. Although the trek tomorrow wasn’t too far, Everest Base camp was getting that ever so closer.
I woke up around 6am and it was a Baltic - 2 degrees, buying some extra layers in Namche now seemed like a good idea albeit I wished I brought some more. I really didn't want to get out of bed even if we were on schedule but Max being the good friend he is decided to drag me, whilst in my sleeping bag onto the floor to wake up me up. Thanks for that, just what I needed. As mentioned, I was running low on money and so I couldn’t afford breakfast this morning so I settled for a muesli bar and some peanut butter cookies that I purchased in a little café en-route. A cornerstone to any nutritious breakfast. But whilst we were having breakfast, Carter couldn't finish his porridge and let me have the rest which I was grateful as I was starving. I was also surprised because he had a huge appetite for a slim guy, like legitimately he would be eating nearly all the time. We set off around 8:30 heading towards Dingbouchebouche and would take around 4-5 hours of trekking which included an ascent of 4400m.
Nurbu said it would be a steady incline instead of what we experienced for our trek to Namche. The road was different to the normal terrain, it would be mainly rocky and sandy and so you had to watch your footing. The weather that day was pretty temperamental that day, it was warm one moment and then you would go around the corner and huge gust of wind would blow this unwelcoming cold breeze into your face. It was hard to decide how to dress that day. But as we were trekking on the winding rocky sandy road we finally caught our first glimpse of Yaks! They were smaller than I thought but had rather large horns and so we stayed well away from them and made sure we gave plenty of room on the road for them to pass on narrow sections. It’s been known in the past that Yak’s have pushed people off the side of the road.
We had a little tea/lunch break around 10:00 and I was a little peckish, so I decided to have some vegetable soup. I thought this would be a healthy nutritious option, but it actually was just full of potatoes that actually made my stomach feel uncomfortable. I could feel the weather changing very quickly, it got colder and colder the more we carried on the trek and blowing head wind that was coming down from the mountains was not fun at all. We were 3 hours into 5 hour trek to our hotel/lodge that we were staying at for the night and scenery of the changed from rich green forests to a rocky boulder field and felt like a barren wasteland. We managed to quickly get immersed into a thick mist which created quite a gloomy atmosphere. It didn’t help that we were stuck behind a herd of Jakari’s (cows) for most of the way and I think we were all getting fed up of by the end. There wasn’t any vegetation around and it was almost too quiet, just the howling of the wind. We finally climbed up a large and hill and we saw it. The small town of Debouche. I was relieved, I really needed to get into the warmth. I was also starting to experience my first symptoms of altitude sickness as I was starting to get a headache. I think it was because I wasn’t staying hydrated or drinking enough fluids so I kept an eye on this for the next couple of days.
We finally arrived at our lodge we were staying in Dingbouche for the next two days, it was called the good luck hotel. It was similar to the last place we stayed at apart from there were a lot more people and the vibe was much more welcoming and friendly. Nurbu said that we would be partially joining another group for the trek for some of what, which we were delighted about. The other group arrived a little later than us and the group consisted of two guys and two girls, similar age to Max and me. We ended up playing guess who and telling some really bad jokes and it became one of the funniest and best nights on the trip, we laughed so hard. It’s sometimes the small things that can make a big difference on a challenging trip. It was a good sign of things to come.
Final Thoughts
Trekking to Dingbouche, and really the entire journey through the Himalayas taught me far more than I expected. It wasn’t just about reaching a destination for or the hotels we were sleeping it at for the night along the way. It was about learning to be patient with discomfort, finding joy in simple things, and to respect the mountains. Whether it was battling altitude headaches, feeling the bite of the cold wind on my face, or laughing over bad jokes in a dimly lit lodge, every moment added to the story in a way that mattered. There’s something humbling about being so far from modern comforts, no easy food, no long showers, no endless distractions. You learn to appreciate a hot bowl of soup (even if it’s mostly potatoes), the generosity of strangers, and the strength of your own body.
If you’re planning a similar trek, or even just wanting to push yourself outside your comfort zone here are a few tips from someone who’s learned them the slightly hard way:
Tips & Advice for Trekking at Altitude
1. Start Hydrating Early:
Altitude sickness can sneak up on you, and one of the best defences is staying well hydrated. Drink more than you think you need, and don’t wait until you feel symptoms.
2. Bring More Layers Than You Think You'll Need:
The weather changes fast. Literally from sunny and warm to freezing in minutes which means you need to pack strategically such base layers, a windproof outer layer, and gloves all which are easy to access out of your bag. So pack smart!
3. Don’t Underestimate Snacks:
Energy bars, nuts, or anything high in calories and easy to pack can be lifesavers especially if you’re low on cash or don’t feel like eating full meals at high altitude.
4. Respect the Porters and Guides:
These people carry your world on their backs. Their strength, kindness, and local knowledge are invaluable. Show appreciation, ask questions, be genuinely interested in them.
5. Embrace the Little Moments:
Whether it’s a misty morning, a shared joke with a stranger, or a surprise puppy encounter. Those small, spontaneous memories will stay with you long after the trek ends.
6. Be Kind to Yourself:
Some days will feel tough. You might miss home, feel exhausted, or question why you’re doing this at all. That’s part of the journey too. Be kind to yourself.
Reaching Dingbouche wasn’t just a milestone on the map but a reminder of how far we’d come and how far we were still willing to go. It made the idea of Everest Base Camp feel real. And, in many ways, it reminded me that all journeys worth taking, whether on a mountain or on the road to your first marathon or seventh, just begin and end with showing up, one step at a time.
Weekly Podcast Episode Rec:
In this episode, Sally sits down with Andy Glaze who is a Firefighter, ultra runner who has competed all over the world in big events. He chats about his upbringing, his love for running, his love for his family, his career and his most recent race, the Arizona Monster 300. A really in depth and honest conversation about his life, how he got where he was despite his troubles when he was a younger kid, how he overcame PTSD, his running goals and how he manages to balance life and running.
Life/Travel/Running Hack
Those early morning 5am runs are a pain to do but for most of us it’s the only time we have to get in with our busy lives. Apart from going to bed early, try laying your clothes and shoes out the evening before and getting your electrolyte drink ready. It’s these small little habits that future you will be glad off. It only takes 5 minutes.
Something I’m pondering ‘Food for Thought’
“Contemplate the price you have to pay for inaction.”
Thanks for reading and subscribing.
It’s better to miss home than it is too miss out on the world
